A woman stitches her way into the male-dominated ritual tradition of Theyyam

In the ritual world of Theyyam, where women rarely find a place in the traditional roles, 41-year-old M. Priya of Kannayi Mukkottu near Payyannur has carved out a distinctive space for herself. Rather than performing rituals, she stitches costumes and decorative garments that transforms male performers into divine figures in the Malabar’s sacred groves and temples.

For Priya, the Theyyam season is also the busiest time of the year. Beginning in November and continuing until March or May, depending on the festival calendar, it keeps her sewing machine busy.

Unlike conventional tailoring, Ms. Priya specialises exclusively in the traditional attire worn by Theyyam performers. She makes costumes and decorative accessories for almost all the Theyyam forms, following individual performances measurements and requirements.

“It takes nearly two days to stitch the complete costume for a Theyyam character. Each form has its own distinctive style of attire, requiring patience, precision, and an understanding of the traditional designs,” she said.

Ms. Priya’s learned the craft from her father, who stitched Theyyam costumes by hand before sewing machines became common. “I learned this by watching my father stitch the costumes at home. I developed an interest in this particular kind of stitching and gradually began doing it myself,” she said.

Not into conventional tailoring

Although she has been involved in the work for over 15 years, Ms. Priya has never ventured into conventional tailoring. Performers from across Kannur and Kasargod districts approach her with their measurements and requirements.

Among the items she makes are kaani, kachunkaraa, Valinjery, kuttithaya and Velimban, Kayipodip, Thalachut besides several other components of Theyyam attire. Designs and stitching patterns vary according to the character, making each order a specialised assignment.

Orders pour in as the season approaches. Ms. Priya spends her evenings from 4 p.m. to 9 p.m. at the sewing machine. Her work has earned the appreciation of performers who depend on the precision and quality of their costumes.

Prashanth Panicker, who has been performing Theyyam since very young age, has been getting his costumes stitched by Ms. Priya.

“Stitching Theyyam costumes requires a great deal of patience. Once we get the costumes stitched by her, there is hardly any need to look elsewhere. The stitching is precise. I perform in several places in Kannur and Kasaragod, and her workmanship has become a familiar signature in the costumes I wear,” he says.

For Priya, the craft is not merely an occupation. Theyyam runs deep in her family. Her father was associated with the tradition, while her brothers children too have performed theyyam.

Constant support

Her husband M Sashi has been a constant source of encouragement. An auto-rickshaw driver, he supports her work, helps her find customers and pursue her interest. He drives more more actively when the Theyyam season winds down.

“Given our family’s association with Theyyam, she has always shown a genuine interest in it. She carries out the work exceptionally well. I also help her find people who need the costumes,” he said.

Forays into drama

Beyond the sewing machine, Ms. Priya remains active in the cultural life of her locality. Associated with folk songs and dance, she is also part of the drama troupe in Payyannur.

In a tradition where women remains largely absent from the performance arena, Ms. Priya’s contribution may be less visible to the audience. Yet every carefully stitched garment she sends to a sacred grove becomes part of the visual splendor of Theyyam.